Day Seven: Kraków

Today was quite a day -- we saw some breathtaking sites, navigated the bus system, learned some important bus riding lessons, tried new foods and drinks, and ended with a walk down memory lane. 

Vera and I slept in (per our usual -- I could get used to this) and after getting ready ventured out to the bus station. Jarek and Gosia had to work today, so we planned to go to the Salt Mine and St. Mary's Basilica and the chocolate shop in Matket Square. We had detailed bus instructions and Jarek's wifi hotspot, so we were set. Or so we thought ... 

We started out very confident: made it to the correct bus platform, bought our tickets, got on the right bus -- solid work. But then we made a slight mistake and got off at the wrong stop. We needed to get off at Weiliczka Cmentarz but we got off at Zawiła Cmentarz -- we were really focused on the cmentarz part. Oops. Realizing our mistake we waited the twenty minutes for the next bust to come and got on it, headed in the right direction. If that would have been the end of our bus adventure, all would be well. But alas ... there is more. The bus keeps going and we are watching our stops (there are quite a few before the one we actually need) when the ticket checker comes through to check our tickets. Not a problem (or so we think). We pull out our tickets and give them to the man who starts speaking to us forcefully in Polish. When we tell him we don't understand, he says "There is a problem with your ticket." It turns out our tickets were only good for one hour, and though we had only two stops to go, we were eight minutes over the allotted hour. Whoops. So did we have to buy another ticket? No. No, that would have been too simple. Instead, they confiscated our passports and declared that we were being ticketed and would need to pay a fine. Ugh. At first the situation was a little scary -- I like to keep my passport in my possession. But after we got our passports back and saw that even though the fine sounded scary (125 złoty) it really wasn't (exchanges to about $30), we were more irritated than anything. We are tourists making a conscious effort to follow the rules. It wasn't like we didn't buy tickets at all!! And thus we made a commotion at Jarek's work by sending the following message: 

So .... this happened today: 

He says he literally laughed out loud. haha We are laughing about it now, too. (The tickets are no big deal -- kind of like being fined on the metro link.) And now we have our Polish felon souvenirs ... and know a little more than we ever wanted to know about the Polish bus system. All over EIGHT MINUTES. Oh well. 

After our little bus adventure, we arrived at the Weiliczka Dalt Mine. We walked over fifty flights of stairs down into the mine -- 135 meters at our deepest cavern. Not only are the mines the site of Poland's salt production, it is also the site of some amazing sculptures!! Here are a few: 

King 

Snow White's seven dwarfs!!

The Last Supper

the main alter in the salt mine chapel 

salty nativity 

The views down there were just breathtaking! We ate lunch in the underground cafe and then headed up and out into the sunshine. 

Next we braved the bus again (careful to buy a one way ticket rather than a timed ticket) and went to the city center where we walked around the castle, checked out a fire breathing dragon, and then went to St. Mary's Basilica. I could spend all day exploring the beautiful isles of the church and still find new details when I looked again. The church was so peaceful and holy. I prayed for a while, lit some candles, and then left. 

After the church Vera and I went to get chocolate. If I am a conaseur of croquetas, Vera is a conaseur of chocolate. haha We went to a shop Jarek recommended, and it didn't disappoint. We both had hot chocolate and truffles. Yum. Yum. Yum. Then we went to a long row of shops filled with souvenirs and trinkets. Lots to see! When we finished there Jarek found us. First, we went to Piljania for lemon vodka and malte (vodka with milk); chupitos for everyone! Both were very good. Next we went to get food -- sausage from a van. Two men make the sausage themselves and then set up their van every night, selling only the sausage; they used to be taxi drivers but saw a need for late night eating options: thus, their new business was born and has an excellent reputation in Kraków. Vera and I approve, too -- the sausage was delicious!! 

Gosia met up with us as we were eating; then we all took the tram back to Jarek's apartment where we watched The Way (a movie about the Camino, if you've never seen it). Such a fitting end to an adventurous day: flooding our minds with memories from our pilgrim days. But we are still pilgrims, yes? Always on a Camino. I couldn't help but be a little teary eyed when the pilgrims in the movie reached Santiago. I remember the day we reached Santiago like it was yesterday <3. Here are some more pictures from today: 

Vera and I feeling super confident at the first bus platform of the day (also the photo that we recommend you use for our wanted poster ...) 

Vera and I's "we got off at the wrong stop but we're not worried because we're back in the right track" picture ... 

And because it's worth repeating ... our Polish Bus Felon picture ... 

That's a looooooong way down! 

a salty pillar 

me with the last supper 

fire breathing dragon !!!! 

St. Mary's in the daylight 

the main alter 

back to my obsession with ceilings ... 

No words -- just beauty. 

I prayed here for quite a bit. Such a peaceful place to sit in awe of the glory of God. 

Market Square 

Chocolate !!! 

Vodka !!! 

Sausage !!! 

the man who cooked the sausage and his van 

: )

Our four pilgrim feet, reunited in one city once again <3 

Buen Camino. 

Day Six: Traveling to Kraków

I can't believe my time in the Netherlands went by so quickly!! Already it is time to head to Poland to see Jarek and Gosia. There isn't too terribly much to share from today -- mostly a day of travel. BUT today was very special because it was the day that our tiny Camino family was reunited. I don't have words to express how wonderful these people are or how much happiness they bring to my heart; I mean, they literally pulled me over mountains and stood by my side every step of the way, and for that they will always hold a special place in my heart and in my life. 

After a morning of trains and metros and an afternoon of airports, we arrived in Katowice where Jarek and Gosia picked us up and brought us back to Jarek's home in Kraków. There we ate dinner -- the Polish version of croquetas!! Here they are called krokiety. Who knew that I would become a coneseur of croquetas?! And as a special bonus, these were homemade by Jarek and Gosia's mom. They were AMAZING. And I think there is a (very small) possibility that I will be able to make them at home. Very, very small. But I will try. And we had beet root soup -- someone from the US help me out: do we have that in the states? I've never had it ... maybe up in Chicago with all the Polish restaurants? I'm not sure, but I really liked it. Today is Jarek's birthday (HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!) so we also enjoyed homemade desert from his mom -- did I mention she's a pastry chef? She's a pastry chef. And the desert was delicious. 

After we were stuffed with amazing food, we took Gosia back to her apartment and then went for a night time walking tour of Market Square in Kraków -- more on that tomorrow when we explore it more thoroughly. There is something so serene about a city at night, when the traffic is absent and the noise has died down ... and the buildings all lit up make for pretty sites. I can't wait to go back tomorrow and see more!! 

Here are a few pictures from today: 

Last breakfast in Holland ... 

We're up and in the train -- bring on the traveling. Poland bound !!!! 

Döner kebab!!! mmmmmm 

Someone is NOT pleased that our flight is running late ... 

Our plane is PINK!!! <3 

Ready to board!! (And much happier now that we are actually walking towards the plane.) 

I'm glad the pilot knows where we're going ... 

There's Poland!!!! 

Homemade krokiety!! mmmmmm 

YUM. 

castle 

more castle 

Cathedral in market square -- I can't wait to go inside tomorrow!!! 

city gate 

street view 

After our walking tour we returned to Jarek's home and enjoyed some sangria before heading to sleep -- traveling is exhausting!! (Also: I know I'm missing a reunion picture. In my excitement at actually being reunited I forgot to take a picture!! I'll take some tomorrow.) 

Buen Camino. 

Day Five: Rotterdam

What a beautiful day with a beautiful friend. With no definite plans or agenda, we progressed through our day, visiting the market, doing a little shopping, walking around Vera's neighborhood, and dining in while engaging in wonderful conversation. 

Yesterday's theme was art. Today's theme was food! We returned to the market near Vera's home to eat our way from vender to vender; we were disappointed in our inability to eat more (our eyes were definitely bigger than our bellies) but everything we tasted was delicious! 

We started out with tapas, a traditional Spanish favorite of ours; plus: they bring back Camino memories. Of course we ordered croquetas and patatas bravas -- Camino staples for us! We then turned to something sweet: donuts! A Berliner for me, a pink sprinkled donut for Vera. And, alas, though we had intentions to consume much more that the market had to offer, we found ourselves stuffed. So we ventured out in search of a scarf (for me) and some sweaters (for Vera). We were successful on both searches. We stopped by a church to see if we could go in ... and we could, but there was a long line and they were charging a fee; so we passed. We returned to the market with returned appetites: gelato was on the menu next! Coconut for Vera, black cherry for me. Yum! Now we were really stuffed, so we decided to get the makings for dinner and head back to Vera's place. 

Once we were back, we took a nap. (Full bellies, lots of walking, carrying bags -- a nap was a good decision.) Then we went out for a walk around Vera's neighborhood. The waterway with all the homes and boats and sidewalks is so pretty. I could definitely live there. After our walk we had falafel for dinner with lemon cheese cake for desert. Dinner conversation was wonderful (per our usual). We both carry with us such a "experience life as it comes" attitude, a belief that no matter what we plan, it's not really in our hands, so it's best to embrace whatever we are handed. When we arrived at Cruce de Ferro on the Camino and deposited our rocks on the pile, I inscripted mine with "It might not always be the path you thought you would take, but it is always the path you were meant to be on." Who would have thought a year ago that the two of us would be sitting in Rotterdam eating falafel, preparing to board a plane to Poland together? I am having so much fun traveling my path, not only here in the Netherlands, but at home as well. 

Here are some pictures from our day! (warning: these photos may make you hungry!) 

Beautiful. And delicious!! 

Tapas!!! 

croquetas y patatas bravas 

Vera's desert ... 

my desert !!! 

gelato <3 

The ceiling at the market -- all those windows are apartments. I think if I lived at the market, I'd be on a first name basis with the croqueta maker ... 

Falafel in pita. Yummy!! 

lemon cheese cake

It is a little overcast, but here is a bit of the view. 

There's the whole view!!! 

And, of course, our daily selfie! (And my new (warm) scarf.) 

And now Vera and I are finishing up packing so that we can catch an early train to the airport -- Poland bound in the morning!!! Jarek and Gosia: we're ready to add you to the reunion!!! 

Buen Camino. <3