Day Six: Estella to Los Arcos

Today was a day filled with emotion and churches!! 

At a little before five this morning, the ladies sleeping in the bunks beneath ours rose and began getting ready (which is not uncommon). What was uncommon, however, was the volume at which they were talking. Another pilgrim shushed them (naturally as the other fourteen people in the room were still trying to sleep) and not only did they get louder, but they switched on all the lights! At that point everyone just wanted them out, so we ignored their behavior and returned to sleeping once they had left. Around seven Vera and I rose, got ready, packed up our packs, and headed out. 

About three kilometers our from Estella was the fuente everyone has been waiting for -- El Fuente de Vino!! We stopped and filled our pilgrim shells with wine and drank from the fountain. After this there was a long walk (where else) up until we arrived at a little town for breakfast. We sat down inside and were enjoying a cup of coffee when the song Human came on the radio ... and perhaps because it is because Tara and Alycia played it so much over Easter in our house or perhaps I relate to the song,  but I couldn't stop the tears as they spilled over -- I don't feel homesick, but that song really makes me miss Tara and Alycia (I miss everyone else, too ... ) Poor Vera asked what was wrong and when I said the song made me miss my sisters, she began to get teary as well missing her family. What a mess we were for having just had a beautiful morning climb and coffee!! We got all the tears out of our system and then continued on our way. 

For a while it was really cold and rainy (so thankful I purchased a rain jacket and not just a poncho!!) so when we got to the next tiny town I was happy to see the church was open -- mostly because I've been dying to pray INSIDE a church and partly because I wanted to get out of the wet. When I walked in, there were a few other pilgrims inside taking pictures and looking at the crosses and an older gentleman trying to convince them to put a euro in the box so the lights would turn on. He tried to convince me as well, but I said no thanks (I can pray in the dark -- a euro buys my lunch!) and sat down my pack and took out my rosary. I made my way to the front and knelt down; when the man saw that I had come in to pray, he went into the sacristy, took out a key, and turned on the lights. He then came and sat next to me and we prayed the rosary together. Afterwards he told me all about the beautiful silver cross that is over a hundred years old; and then I lit a candle and said a few more prayers before heading out to walk again. 

We walked through more vineyards and more hills and were pretty much out in the middle of nowhere (and you know you're in the middle of nowhere because you can see everything from the top o those hills!!) when all of a sudden we saw a sign: bocaderia 3km. Hmm. A little while later: bocaderia 2km. This continued until we were just five hundred meters away, but still we saw no town, no buildings ... what a cruel joke! But then, just over a hill, was a small food truck selling sandwiches. Very tricky and very genius. 

We continued walking and soon came to our destination: Los Arcos. Today we walked a total of twenty four kilometers. I have to say, today's walk, though a bit chilly and very wet, was such a beautiful one. I'm not sure if my pack is lighter or my legs and lungs stronger or both, but the inclines seem less of a struggle and the amount of breaks I need lessen each day. When we arrived at our Albergue, we checked in and went up to claim our bunks. That is where I met Herman. 

Herman was already setting up shop in his bunk when Vera and I arrived to claim the bunk next to his. We all greeted each other and exchanged the usual "where are you from"s and "where did you walk from today"s before I collapsed into my bunk for a nap ... which was very short lived thanks to my cough who seems to be dead set on not letting me sleep. Herman was very concerned with my coughing and made quite a few suggestions on medicine I should take and that a hot shower might help with the congestion. After I got back from my shower Herman asked what kind of work I did, and I told him that I've been an ICU nurse for almost five years now, but that I just received an interview for medical school, so hopefully that is in my future. And with that Herman began sharing his whole life story with me: a general surgeon for over forty years, twelve of which were in the marines, as well as work in the aerospace medicine program. He told stories of things he had seen and places he'd been and how things have changed and how in the blink of an eye it is time to retire. It was so neat to hear him talk so beautifully about the profession I love. Then he says he has something for me, and he pulls out his United States Marines pin and says he wants me to have it. I told him I couldn't, but he insisted -- he said that he commissions me to a life of service and medicine that begins in the Camino de Santiago. He said never to forget that there are two lives to be lived: the life you dream of and the life you lead. I assured him that I was well on my way to combining the two. I think it is just so amazing how God can make the world turn just so that two people meet at just the right time in just the right place. I am so honored to have met Herman -- had I chosen to start just one day later or not had this crazy cough or had I chosen to sleep on the second floor instead of the fourth, I would have never had the chance for this beautiful encounter. 

After all of this, it was time for dinner. Vera and I headed to a nearby cafe (after a stop at the pharmacy -- which is a whole other story on differences in medicine in varrying countries) and ordered the pilgrim's menu: risotto and croquetas and vino for me, chicken wings and French fries and vino for Vera. Neither of us could eat the ice cream at the end of our meal, but we did have a nice cup if coffee con leche before heading out into the chilly evening to the church. 

Let us talk for a moment about the beauty that is the intricate details of the alter piece at the church here in Los Arcos. My goodness. I could have stared at it for hours and not seen every detail. Mass started, and unfortunately so did my cough. You spend your whole life being told not to talk to strangers and not to take candy from strangers and definitely not to eat things that strangers give you -- well all that went out the window when the little Spanish lady behind me tapped my arm and sprinkled three black "pebbles" into my hand from an unmarked bottle and signaled for me to put them in my mouth. It was either that or cough for the foreseeable future, so I did as she said. Other than the fact that the charcoal looking things tasted about ten times worse and a thousand times stronger than a halls cough drop, her remedy worked like a charm and I was sure to give her ample thanks after mass. When mass had ended the priest called all the pilgrims to the front of the church for a special blessing, giving out prayer cards in each pilgrim's native language. He then gave us permission to take pictures of "mi Iglesia bonita". 

And now I am back in my Albergue, all tucked in and ready for sleep. I took some cough syrup (I think) that the pharmacist gave me, so hopefully that should help. 

Here are a few pictures from today: 

I am drinking from the Fountain of Wine! What a great way to start the day. 

Everyone loves rolling hills! 

Food trucks have even found their way onto the Camino! 

Rain jacket: still keeping out the wind and the rain!! 

Outside of the church ... 

And inside. There is no way a camera can capture it -- the immense size and beauty plus the surrounding church filled with just as ornate side alters and statues. It was breathtaking. 

And my bed for the night. 

Tomorrow will be a long walk -- almost thirty kilometers. Pray for sun, for well rested bodies, and for more beautiful encounters with God's pilgrims. 

Buen Camino. 

Jena