Day Ten: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis

Today was a beautiful (and very warm) day on the Camino de Santiago! 

This morning started out a little rough for everyone -- we had the number one snorer staying in our albergue last night. Imagine a continuously growling chihuahua and then every five seconds add in someone stepping on a duck, like a pained, knocked the breath out of him quack. That is what his snoring sounded like. And he kicked. And punched. And squirmed. All. Night. Long. How do I know such details of his night? Because I was on the top bunk, and he was on the bottom. It was like I was in a boat bunk in choppy seas, swaying through the the night every time he thrashed. Sheesh. I did feel a little bad for him when he woke up -- all fifty people in that room had glaring, dagger eyes pointed in his direction. He can't help what he does in his sleep!! I think he is staying at a hotel tonight -- he said he didn't sleep well last night due to all the snoring (😳) so he's going to sleep somewhere a little more private. We think his group members took up a collection and voted him out of the albergue. 

After stopping for coffee and ingesting lots of coffee, we were out in the trails. The path was a little hilly to start, but ended up being a really lovely walk. The day was complicated by heat, and soon our Israeli and Portuguese friends had fallen behind us. Usually we all start walking together and naturally have different paces, so we walk until we hit the next coffee shop and we all wait there until the group reunites. Well today we waited and waited and waited -- no sign of them. After waiting for quite a while, we decided to go ahead and keep a look out for them when we arrived at our final destination for the day. That turned out to be a good plan, and we are all staying at the same albergue again tonight. 

The sun was really warm today and we were without shade for much of the walk, so a shower and nap were in order when we arrived at the albergue. Once everyone was tested we ventured out to explore the town -- namely, the hot springs. Here in Caldas de Reis there are hot springs that run under the city, perfect for soaking your aching pilgrim feet; so we did just that! It was too hot at first, but as our feet grew accustomed to the steaming water, the warmth soothed our sore muscles -- I could have soaked my whole body in the water! 

After the springs we went past the church -- I went inside just in time to catch the last decade of the rosary and spend a little time in prayer. Another big difference on the Camino Portuguese from the Camino Frances is the difference in the aspect of spirituality. On the Camino frances, many of the pilgrims were on for religious reasons and pilgrim masses were offered in nearly every town; not so on this route. Many of the churches are not open, and the ones that are and do have mass are mass for parishioners, not pilgrims. And not one albergue I've been in has offered evening prayer or pilgrim prayer. I'm not complaining -- the real pilgrimage occurs within your heart as your body carries you to your destination; prayer does not require a church or organization. That being said, I am eager to arrive in Santiago and attend the pilgrim mass! 

At dinner we ended up in the same cafe as the German student group -- I think between our group (which picked up an extra two: Karl and Melaina from Germany) and the student group, we overwhelmed the waiters. They got every order wrong and ended up with too many second courses and not enough deserts; but everyone ate and had their fill, so we mark dinner as a success. 

And now I'm back in my albergue, ready for sleep. 

Photos from today ... 

Breakfast!! Tostadas y sumo de naranja. 

This is how Ronni crosses the street: like Moses parting the sea. He makes sure that we have all crossed successfully and then he crosses himself. 

The bridge exciting the city. 

Less than fifty kilometers to go!! 

Gorgeous views today! 

Forty kilometers to Santiago!! We are so close!!! 

A stroll through the vineyard ... no big deal. 

Hot springs!!! 

And my bed for the night. 

Tomorrow the guide book would have us go to Padron, but that leaves twenty four kilometers before Santiago, which is a lot to do if we want to get to the cathedral before noon for the pilgrim mass, so instead we will go almost thirty kilometers tomorrow to Teo so that we are only ten kilometers from Santiago. The pilgrim mass is not important for the other four pilgrims we are traveling with, so they will do the route the way the guidebook plans and will arrive in Santiago still the same day as us, just a few hours later; we've exchanged numbers / information so that we will all be able to meet up to celebrate in Santiago. 

And now it is time for sleep -- there is much walking to do tomorrow. 

Buen Camino.