The dogs are howling -- both literally and figuratively. Today was a beautiful day for a walk -- and the terrain (though a little hillier than we like) was gorgeous. We started our day, how else, but up! Up up and out of Betanzos, destined for Bruma. After a bit of a climb (six kilometers long and 150 meters up) we reached a church that even though it was closed offered what assistance it could providing a shady spot for breakfast. CJ and I stocked up at the store yesterday in preparation for little food along the trail today. We rested a while in the shade and greeted other pilgrims as they came up the hill. Our guide book also told us about a drinking water fountain on the side of the church through the unlocked courtyard gate, so we passed on our knowledge.
Next we continued on through some beautiful forest trails -- not only do they provide shade from the hot sun, but they are so incredible peaceful: the tall, towering trees and fern like plants in all hues of greens and browns with the occasional wild flower, the soft squish of boots on the well walked path, the smell of the damp earth and mossy plants. Many pilgrims stopped after eleven kilometers today at an albergue in Presedo -- but like the crazy pilgrims we are, we decided to keep going. 1. The next albergue was almost 20 kilometers away, 2. We weren't the only pilgrims who kept going, 3. The mother and daughter from Germany continued on, too. After the turn of for the albergue we kept going through another forest path when we came upon a cafe, right in the middle of nowhere. I love finding cafes in the middle of nowhere! We went inside the beautiful courtyard, found a sunny spot, and ordered lunch (by this time it was near eleven). We ran into Scott (from Scotland) who was staying at the albergue up the road as well as a group of Spanish ladies who are all walking the Camino together. (On an unrelated but kind of related note: there is also a group of French ladies walking the Camino together -- they are in the bunks next to CJ and I and giggling like school girls despite being old enough to be our parents ... apparently this is a thing -- to walk the Camino as a group of friends. Which begs the question: who's signing up to walk a Camino with me when we are in our fifties? Pick the route, pick the time of year; let's make this happen! The year we all turn fifty, I say we walk a Camino -- I'm looking at you: Rachel, Andrea(s), Brittany, Danielle. You have twenty years to prepare.) Okay -- back to the cafe in the middle of nowhere ...
After drinking our weight in water and eating some Spanish tortilla, we started walking again until we came upon a fabulous rock under a tree in the middle of a meadow, perfect for a nap. While we were napping, the wind picked up and the clouds rolled in ... it appeared it was going to rain, but thankfully it did not. What it did do, however, was make our walk less hot. (Thank goodness!) we continued on for about ten more kilometers until we came upon yet another cafe where we stopped for a cold drink before continuing on our way. The next four kilometers were the toughest patch: 100 meters up every one kilometer. Phew. I think I prayed about a thousand hail Mary's climbing up that hill! I know it helped, because slowly I was able to take less breaks and walk for longer patches.
We ran into a lot of animals today -- cats (the cat at the cafe in the forest bypassed all the others and came straight to me; she must have sensed I was a softy ... I shared my toast with her), cows, roosters, sheep, and dogs. Lots of dogs. Barking dogs. Not happy to see us dogs. Thank goodness most of them are kept behind fenced in yards!
Once we got to the top, I'd like to say it was all downhill from there, but that is not how the Camino works! After a a few more ups and (thankfully) a lot more downs, we made it to our albergue. ANNNNND we weren't the last ones there! Of course we are only really outpacing the ten year old, but hey -- not last is not last! I'm out defense, we do take more tests than most -- but why not? The Camino is not a race. Why not take a nap in a meadow under a cherry tree on a sunny day? Or drink water from a natural spring at a fountain deep in the forest? Or bask in the shade of an 18th century church? When will those opportunities ever present themselves again?
Once at the albergue we rested a bit then went out to grab a bite to eat before coming back to shower and organize our packs for tomorrow. Then we settled into the common room to play cards in our jammies until bedtime. A truly wonderful day.
Here are a few pics:
Tomorrow is an easier day -- which is good news for our achy feet. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings -- but for now, it's time for sleep.
Buen Camino.
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