Següeiro

Today we walked very fast -- because when rain pours in buckets from the heavens, you figure the best way to walk is the quickest way to walk! Despite the intermittent torrential downpour (intermittent with lighter rain, not with absence of rain), it really was a nice day. 

We had five less kilometers to walk today than yesterday and less steep of a climb, so instead of rising early and getting to our destination early, we decided to sleep in -- not a lot, mind you; just until quarter to seven. We had a little breakfast (our leftover bread and jam from yesterday) and set out into the rain. Most of the pilgrims weren't pleased at the rain, but I was! I really do my best walking in the rain: not too hot and motivation to keep moving, even uphill. The German mom and daughter were glad for the rain as well -- they were the last to leave the albergue this morning (we were not too far ahead). We made quick work of the first five kilometers and came to our first cafe where we enjoyed a warm cup of coffee before heading back out into the rain. We got a few meters down the road from the cafe when we stumbled upon some pretty stellar dinosaur statues, so naturally we stopped to take some pictures / selfies; we had to do it. 

A little Jurassic park? 

A little sore neck, nothing to worry about. Tis only a flesh wound ... 

We really couldn't help ourselves ... 

Another quick four kilometers and we found another cafe -- this time it was not chocolate that warmed our bellies; then back out into the rain. Five more kilometers and it was time to stop for lunch; normally we would have stopped a little later, but this was the last cafe before our final destination; if we hadn't stopped, it would have been sixteen kilometers between stops. If it wasn't so wet, we could have picnicked; but seeing as there were no dry spots, early lunch it was! CJ and I both had a bowl of the galacian soup and shared some patatas ali oli. While at the cafe George arrived -- a little wet but doing well! The German woman and her daughter also found their way into the cafe. After the soup was gone, we went back out into the rain yet again. Now I don't mind a little rain, but about twenty minutes after we left the cafe, the skies opened up and it really poured. Sheets of water fell from the sky. We tried to take a little shelter under the trees, but nothing was really helping; so we kept walking. We walked through some really pretty forest trails as well as farmland pastures; everything was extra green and lush with the falling rain. We continued on for eleven ish more kilometers. And finally around four we arrived at our albergue. This albergue is really REALLY nice. We get to the desk to check in and the lady asks me what kind of a bed I want (I assume she means too or bottom) and I say it doesn't matter, but then she tells me there are four different options: she starts with "a double bed in a private room with your own bathroom" at which I cut her off and said "Yes. That one. Say no more." And it was only twenty euros AND includes breakfast! After a rest and a shower, we went to do some laundry and ran into none other than the German woman and her daughter! We had a nice visit with them while everyone's laundry washed and dried. It FINALLY stopped raining, so around nine CJ and I went out to eat a bite. Now we are back at our albergue ready for a good night of sleep. 

Here are some pictures from today: 

Cafe con leche!! 

Posing in the rain with a giant pilgrim statue ... 

CJ and I with a group of very sweet Spanish ladies -- they are wat our albergue tonight, too. 

Stormy waymarker .. 

Galacian soup! I'm pretty sure those are grapevine leaves in there ... 

Us with George and the German momma! The little one doesn't like to be in pictures ... so she is sitting at the table watching us. haha 

Someone ripped the bottom of my foot and planted blisters on my toes. And between my toes. 

That can't be good ... 

That's our route! 

Dinner: toast with goat cheese and jamon with raisins and nuts -- yummy! 

And our bed for tonight. 

Tomorrow we only walk sixteen kilometers into Santiago -- farther than usual when walking into Santiago, but there was nowhere closer to stay on this route. Now it is time for rest. 

Buen Camino. ❤

Bruma

The dogs are howling -- both literally and figuratively. Today was a beautiful day for a walk -- and the terrain (though a little hillier than we like) was gorgeous. We started our day, how else, but up! Up up and out of Betanzos, destined for Bruma. After a bit of a climb (six kilometers long and 150 meters up) we reached a church that even though it was closed offered what assistance it could providing a shady spot for breakfast. CJ and I stocked up at the store yesterday in preparation for little food along the trail today. We rested a while in the shade and greeted other pilgrims as they came up the hill. Our guide book also told us about a drinking water fountain on the side of the church through the unlocked courtyard gate, so we passed on our knowledge. 

Next we continued on through some beautiful forest trails -- not only do they provide shade from the hot sun, but they are so incredible peaceful: the tall, towering trees and fern like plants in all hues of greens and browns with the occasional wild flower, the soft squish of boots on the well walked path, the smell of the damp earth and mossy plants. Many pilgrims stopped after eleven kilometers today at an albergue in Presedo -- but like the crazy pilgrims we are, we decided to keep going. 1. The next albergue was almost 20 kilometers away, 2. We weren't the only pilgrims who kept going, 3. The mother and daughter from Germany continued on, too. After the turn of for the albergue we kept going through another forest path when we came upon a cafe, right in the middle of nowhere. I love finding cafes in the middle of nowhere! We went inside the beautiful courtyard, found a sunny spot, and ordered lunch (by this time it was near eleven). We ran into Scott (from Scotland) who was staying at the albergue up the road as well as a group of Spanish ladies who are all walking the Camino together. (On an unrelated but kind of related note: there is also a group of French ladies walking the Camino together -- they are in the bunks next to CJ and I and giggling like school girls despite being old enough to be our parents ... apparently this is a thing -- to walk the Camino as a group of friends. Which begs the question: who's signing up to walk a Camino with me when we are in our fifties? Pick the route, pick the time of year; let's make this happen! The year we all turn fifty, I say we walk a Camino -- I'm looking at you: Rachel, Andrea(s), Brittany, Danielle. You have twenty years to prepare.) Okay -- back to the cafe in the middle of nowhere ... 

After drinking our weight in water and eating some Spanish tortilla, we started walking again until we came upon a fabulous rock under a tree in the middle of a meadow, perfect for a nap. While we were napping, the wind picked up and the clouds rolled in ... it appeared it was going to rain, but thankfully it did not. What it did do, however, was make our walk less hot. (Thank goodness!) we continued on for about ten more kilometers until we came upon yet another cafe where we stopped for a cold drink before continuing on our way. The next four kilometers were the toughest patch: 100 meters up every one kilometer. Phew. I think I prayed about a thousand hail Mary's climbing up that hill! I know it helped, because slowly I was able to take less breaks and walk for longer patches. 

We ran into a lot of animals today -- cats (the cat at the cafe in the forest bypassed all the others and came straight to me; she must have sensed I was a softy ... I shared my toast with her), cows, roosters, sheep, and dogs. Lots of dogs. Barking dogs. Not happy to see us dogs. Thank goodness most of them are kept behind fenced in yards! 

Once we got to the top, I'd like to say it was all downhill from there, but that is not how the Camino works! After a a few more ups and (thankfully) a lot more downs, we made it to our albergue. ANNNNND we weren't the last ones there! Of course we are only really outpacing the ten year old, but hey -- not last is not last! I'm out defense, we do take more tests than most -- but why not? The Camino is not a race. Why not take a nap in a meadow under a cherry tree on a sunny day? Or drink water from a natural spring at a fountain deep in the forest? Or bask in the shade of an 18th century church? When will those opportunities ever present themselves again? 

Once at the albergue we rested a bit then went out to grab a bite to eat before coming back to shower and organize our packs for tomorrow. Then we settled into the common room to play cards in our jammies until bedtime. A truly wonderful day. 

 

Here are a few pics: 

More path markers -- they are always a welcome site (unless they point up!!) 

the church wehere we are our breakfast 

beautiful forest pathways 

This looks like a scene from the secret garden -- Spain really is magical. 

This cafe was wonderful -- and literally in the middle of nowhere! 

This kind of looks like Grandpa's thinking rock! 

my under tree napped napper

Blisters. My feet have succumb to blisters. 😩 

Our albergue -- this one is really nice; I love the old storms! 

And my bed for the night. 

Tomorrow is an easier day -- which is good news for our achy feet. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings  -- but for now, it's time for sleep. 

Buen Camino. 

Betanzos

Hace calor. Hace mucho MUCHO calor! In case you weren't aware, Spain is experiencing a heat wave -- a heat wave so intense that it is being reported on the news and they are interviewing pilgrims to see if and how the heat is changing their pilgrimage. All it is doing to CJ and I's pilgrimage is making it sweatier. And bringing more shade breaks and cafe stops for cold drinks. (The latter two are welcomed changes -- I love taking my time and seeing everything there is to see!)

Today we got up a little before seven and started walking: straight. up. hill. Of course, the views at the top are almost always breathtakingly beautiful and make the climb worth it. Our trail today was a mixture of steep ups and steep downs -- luckily there were some shady spots to rest and cool down. 

We met a few fellow pilgrims today: George from Germany, Scott from Scotland, and a mother and daughter duo also from Germany. George has done one Camino every year for the last ten years -- he says next year he is going to vacation at a beach. haha Scott has been on the Camino since March, starting first with the Camino Frances and then the Camino Portuguese and finally the Camino Inglés -- ironically, the same order that I did mine in (although with a minimum year in between to rest; all three back to back is dedicated! The mother and daughter from Germany (the daughter being maybe ten or eleven) are completing their third Camino together, the mom is on her fifth Camino. I guess once you've done one Camino, you truly feel called to come back and walk it again. The trails are so peaceful. Even when the climb is tough. Even when the sun is hot. Even when your pack is heavy, at the end of the day, you accomplished a seemingly impossible task; and of course, you spent your day in camaraderie with you fellow pilgrims and in prayer with the Lord -- and a bonus for me, in the loving presence of my husband. I am so blessed to have someone so patient and encouraging not only to walk with on the Camino but through all of life. 

After another long day of walking, we arrived to our destination: Betanzos. The town is beautiful -- a bit hillier than I like, but I can handle that. We first stopped at our albergue for a shower then went out to find groceries for tomorrow -- there is an 18 km gap between the town we are leaving and the next town what has a cafe / water, so it is important that we stock up. We gathered our grocery items and went to the town square to go into the church and pray for a while. I always find churches to be peaceful places, and this one was no different: Iglesia de Santo Domingo. After praying and obtaining a sello for our passports, we returned to our albergue to deposit our groceries before heading back out to find dinner: döner kababs (a personal favorite). CJ had his first ever kabab -- and enjoyed it a lot! And now we are back at our albergue to get some much needed rest. Our master plan for tomorrow is to rise extra early before the sun so that we get in a good portion of the walk before the sun gets so hot. Although, tomorrow is our most steep day of climbing as well as our longest day ... I think we will be saying lots of prayers!! 

A few photos from today: 

Filling up the water bottles! 

View from the top -- we started at those boats!! 

Mid morning selfie! 

A Fuentes hidden in the countryside -- a beautiful place to rest and fill up the water bottles! 

😍

It wouldn't. R a post without a pic of a stone marker! 

CJ's first kabob!! 

the church

My bed for tonight ☺

Please keep CJ and I in your prayers tomorrow -- we will do the same. 

Buen Camino. 

Pontedeuma

We got an early (ish) start this morning -- up at six and down to breakfast by six forty-five. Breakfast was a buffet: toast and jellies and cereals and eggs and meats and coffee and tea. After filling up for the long walk ahead, we took our first steps of the Camino. 

Fun fact: the Camino Inglés was the route to Santiago most often used by the English, Welsh, and Irish pilgrims. It is said that Mary arrived at the shore in Ferrol paddling a stone boat to help the apostle James evangelize that part of Spain; this is why this route not only is a conveniently short route for those of us with only two weeks of vacation, but a route with special meaning as well. 

Sometimes when I experience something a little bizarre, something a little out of the ordinary, I wonder how the other person would retell the story from their point of view -- for example: when the man and women we encountered this morning on the empty, sleeping streets of Ferrol retell the story, I believe it will go something like this: "I pulled the car up right next to the house early in the morning before any reasonable person would be awake and honked once; I rushed to open the door and he sped out with her, her head and torso wrapped in a blanket, and jumped in the car, her limp legs dangling out the door ... and wouldn't you know: two pilgrims are right there, witnessing the whole thing. So I gave them an awkward smile and said "buen Camino" and got in the car -- and they kept walking, and we drove away." That's right -- we literally experienced a Monty Python "bring out your dead" moment on the Camino this morning. Maybe waking up early is overrated? CJ and I laughed about it and kept going. We had a lot of walking to do today. 

Today's walk had lots of beautiful ocean views -- and a few beaches to see. We covered every terrain from forest path to walking path, ocean and river, steep inclines and drastic declines. And though we didn't get rained on, we were baked by the sun anytime the shade ran out. Our guide book is super helpful -- though the trail is marked, sometimes it is not marked well. Aside from tons of yellow arrows, there is something else missing from this trail: pilgrims!! We saw at most three while we were walking today (though our albergue tonight holds twenty and almost every bunk is full). Maybe tomorrow we will see more. 

Because the sun was so warm, we took a few breaks in the afternoon to rehydrate and rest, so we got to our albergue a little later than usual (around six). Still not too shabby -- we did about twenty one miles in eight hours (taking into account our three hour long breaks ... haha)

Once we reached our albergue we showered and rested and then went in search of dinner. We sat outside at a tapas restaurant with a beautiful view of the bridge and river. We ate and then made our way back to our albergue where we are ready for sleep. Here are a few photos from today: 

Up early and out on the trails! 

Ocean views along much of our route today. 

I just love the markers -- and the relief that comes with seeing one when it's been a while and you aren't sure you're on the right path ... 

Pilgrim dedication at a local church. 

Water break!! 

Must stay hydrated!! 

Sitting on an old stone bridge resting our feet. 

Beach!! 

Tiny rest on a park bench ❤

The bridge leading into Pontedeume. 

A showered selfie. 

My dinner: croquetas, fried, and toast with onions and goat cheese. 

And CJ's bed for the night -- because I'm laying in mine. haha

More walking tomorrow -- cannot wait!! 

Buen Camino. 

Ferrol Pictures

On the plane to Spain! 

The official starting place of the Camino Inglés. 

It's always. Kc nice to see a marker to let you know you're going the right way! 

Croquetas at Bla Bla Café

Examining the guide. Ok book. No getting lost tomorrow!! 

Ferrol

Today was a very long day! 

I squeaked out of work a little bit early (thanks again Vicki!!) and went home to grab my pack, double check the list to make sure nothing was forgotten, and snuggle Bernie one more time before heading to the airport. We were fortunate when we arrived at the airport -- there was a line at least seventy five people long waiting to check in at the desk (judging by the plethora of Disney shirts and ear hats I'd say they were a large group headed out Florida), but no waiting at the kiosks. We easily checked in and we're through security and our our gate with enough time to enjoy a cup of coffee before boarding our first flight to Chicago. In Chicago we had a few hours layover, but that was nice because I was in dire need of a nap. I found an out of the way spot to curl up and sleep while CJ sat nearby and watched a movie. From Chicago we flew all the way to Madrid -- you'd have to ask CJ how the flight was: I slept the. entire. way. Once we arrived in Madrid (around seven am) we maneuvered our way through customs and security, had some coffee, and waited for our next flight: to A Coruña. Finally at one thirty pm we were finished flying -- but we were not at our final destination. Now it was time for the bus(es). From the airport we took a bus to the main bus station in A Coruña and then took a bus to Ferrol. Phew. 

Once in Ferrol, we found our way to the harbor via trial and error. The guidebook said, and I quote "once you come out of the bus station, you take the only obvious  route to the city streets and continue on until you come to the first big plaza". We must not do obvious well. Never the less, we found our way (with a little help from a friendly passerbyer) and arrived at the starting point for the Camino Inglés. 

A bit of disappointment came when we arrived at the pilgrim office to find it closed -- apparently we (nor the guidebook nor the other pilgrims at the locked door) didn't know that the office is closed on Mondays. (sigh) We looked out over the harbor and then started the search for somewhere to sleep. Ferrol, though it is the starting point for the Camino Inglés, does not have any albergues; so we found a nice hostel with a private room to get a good night's rest before starting out in the morning. Once we checked in and put down our packs, we laid down to take a nap -- that got way out of hand. Instead of sleeping for an hour or two, we slept for nearly five; which is how we ended up enjoying a nice dinner at Bla Bla Café at eleven o'clock at night. haha And now we are back at our room, organizing our packs and preparing for tomorrow. We need to get an early start since tomorrow is a far day of walking, so sleep is in the very near future! 

We didn't take many photos, but here are the few from today: 

On the plane and headed for Spain! 

the stone that marks the starting point 

It is always comforting to see a marker that confirms you're going the right way! 

How would I know I'm at home in Spain if I didn't eat my weight in croquetas?! 

Reading over the guide book so we get started on the right path in the morning ...

And our bed for the night. 

Tomorrow we will rise early and begin our pilgrimage -- I cannot wait to be out on the trails, step after step: in silent prayer, in conversation with fellow pilgrims, and hand in hand with my love. 

Buen Camino.