Day Thirteen: Burgos to Hontanas

True to its superstition, day thirteen was a bit unlucky. The morning started not with Vera and I rising with the sun and gearing up for thirty three kilometers of walking ahead of us, but rather to Vera not feeling well and discussion of whether or not she should attempt the day's walk. We packed up and headed to a cafe near by and had some breakfast, after which Vera was feeling a little better, so we decided to go on. I felt so awful that she was feeling so awful! I could tell that was miserable, but I decided to support her in whatever decision she made, whether that be walking or taking a bus. As a friends on the Camino, we support each other and encourage each other and push each other when we feel we can't go on - but how do you know when to keep encouraging and when to say that enough is enough? We marched on to the next town, ten kilometers away. We stopped in at the pharmacy and got Vera some medicine, but even so she was just feeling too ill to go on for twenty three more kilometers ... and that is how I ended up a solo pilgrim for the day. 

As I walked away from the cafe we had stopped at, I felt so guilty. I knew that I didn't want to take a taxi, but I also didn't want her to go alone. I also knew that she must be feeling so much frustration, both because her body is so sick and also because she will not have walked the whole Camino (we have already decided that I will just make her do extra laps when we get to Santiago, so it will be okay). And so I mustered all my courage and strength and started walking ... and walking and walking and walking. 

As I headed (where else) up the hill towards the next town, I started crossing paths with, one by one, religious sisters who were coming down the hill. I'm not sure if they aren't to walk together or if they use their time walking to be alone, but it was almost as if someone was standing at the top of the hill releasing them one by one in a staggered pattern. And as each one passed, I greeted them and they wished me a Buen Camino. I think they helped to pass the lonely beginning a little faster, because in no time I was already five kilometers away in the next town. After that the time flew by -- I thought about my sisters and prayed for them and their futures; I thought about my future and prayed that everything turn out exactly as it should; I prayed for my parents and my grandparents and all my little cousins. Pretty much: I prayed a lot. If you are reading this right now, I probably prayed for you, too. 

Soon I came to Hornillas, the last town before the big final stretch -- and was I ever happy to run into the two Dutch men I had enjoyed dinner with just a few nights prior! The Camino has a way of providing just what you need when you need it. (For example: I started my trip with two pairs of sunnies. I broke one pair and lost the other, so I bought a hat instead. Well today I was thinking that I really should buy another pair of sunnies because the hat just isn't cutting it -- and wouldn't you know it there in my path was a pair of sunglasses! There was no one else around, so I picked them up and put them on. I'll leave them for another pilgrim at the end of my trip.) I sat down with the men and enjoyed an ice tea and we chatted about our day when I realized the time was getting late (I had been sitting with them for an hour) and suggested we move on, but they were staying in Hornillas for the night. So solo again, I grabbed by bag and headed on my way. I wasn't solo for long, however, because on the path I met up with a German couple that we haven't seen for a few days (his foot was bothering him so they've been taking the bus the last few days). I chatted with them as I walked but eventually they too stopped and I was left to go the last five kilometers alone. What is it with the last five kilometers? They are always the hardest, and today I was missing my pep talk buddy. But no worries -- I gave myself a nice little pep talk. Eventually I came to a sign that announced my final destination was just two kilometers away. I walked a little faster and soon there was a sign that the town was just five hundred meters away -- but it couldn't be! I couldn't see it anywhere. I kept walking, and it was as if God just nestled it in between two hills -- beautifully waiting for my arrival. I could have cried. I was so tired and my feet were aching (imagine having a Charlie horse in your foot and then walking a few miles) but also I was so stinking proud of myself -- I felt so accomplished. Now granted I flew to Spain fully understanding that I was a solo pilgrim and may end up walking the entire Camino alone, but after I met Vera and we decided to walk together, I have felt like part of a team -- it's hard to keep going when you are missing part of your team. 

I got into Hontanas and texted Vera to see where she was staying. I quickly found her and we shared our adventures from while we were apart (she had quite the taxi adventure today!). She is already feeling better after a break from walking and an afternoon nap. I wanted to go to the church to pray, but there is no mass tonight and the doors are locked. (Do you think that's God's way of saying "You spent your whole day talking to me; we need some alone time."?) So instead Vera and I registered for a 7:00 dinner slot and waited (not so patiently) for our turn to eat. Our friends Jarek and Gorscha were waiting for dinner, too, so we all got to eat together -- by far one of the highlights of the day. It makes my heart happy how much laughter occurs when we are all together. 

And now I am sitting on the floor outside my sleep room (because it was the only place I could find to charge my phone) and Jarek says I need to stop blogging and go to bed ... So here are some pictures from today: 

I love all the poppies!!! 

Being a solo pilgrim ... (And my God given sunnies!!) 

For being an unlucky day, it sure was a pretty one! Although it was a little warm ... 

Tara: This one's for you -- birdie on a post!! 

It's hard to see, but there are sea shells tied to that cross. I love walking in the middle of nowhere and coming across these beautiful little shrines. 

If you look closely, you can see the steeple of the church. Such a sweet little town all nestled into the hillside. 

At dinner we ordered ice cream for desert. The waitress brought out one first (chocolate) and handed it to Jarek who handed it to me ... who started eating it. Well then about five minutes later she brought out his -- hazelnut, which he doesn't like; so I traded him. And that is how I got one and a half deserts tonight!! 

And my bed for tonight. 

Please pray that Vera feels better tomorrow -- I need my walking buddy back! Also: the church bell just rang and a goose (probably not a goose) honked ... that better not be an all night occurrence!!! 

Buen Camino. 

Jena