Day Twenty Five: Villafranca to La Faba

I am one soggy pilgrim -- and not a warm soggy pilgrim, a cold soggy pilgrim. But I am channeling my inner duck and praying for sunshine (or at least breaks in between downpours). This morning was one of those mornings that you just want to stay in bed: it was overcast and rainy and warmer under my covers than outside of them; but after a self pep talk I got up, packed my bag, put on my raincoat and booted my feet ... and went in search of breakfast. There were three routes available today. The first was 40 kilometers in length with multiple steep climbs in secluded passes ... maybe. The second had a few big climbs but intertwined through villages and was not so remote ... that sounds better. The third  also had a bit of a climb (though only eight hundred meters opposed to 1300 opposed to 1950) but was mainly along a busy road with only a few parts through nature areas ... blech. However, thanks to the buckets of water falling from the sky and the threat of storms, we decided to err on the side of caution and take the safest route along the road. 

The road route actually wasn't as bad as I thought it would be -- it turns out you can't really go wrong when you're walking through mountains! The road kind of weaved through a valley between the mountains; at one point, I felt like I was in a scene from Jurrasic Park -- had a T-Rex popped out from the thick of the trees, I wouldn't have been surprised. When we are climbing mountains and get to the top, I always feel so tall and powerful and strong. Today being surrounded by towering mountains and forever tall trees made me feel so small and vulnerable -- it is amazing how your surroundings can have such an influence on your perception of self. The rain made Vera and I walk very quickly, and in ninety minutes we had already marched ten kilometers where we stopped for a cafe con leche and a snack. We were not the only pilgrims trying to escape the rain under the excuse of a snack break -- the cafe was packed! 

After sitting for an hour and enjoying our warmth, we decided it was time to swim on, so we redressed in our rain gear and headed back out. Just before we reached the edge of town, we saw a church that was actually open! So we stopped in for a moment of prayer before continuing on our way. We splashed our way for a little over an hour more until we reached a little town where we stopped in for another warm drink (also to check the guide book to see how much further we had to go). Here we also met a cat who, much like pilgrims, was not a fan of the wet weather; she sat at my feet until I picked her up and then purred in my arms. The guide book told us that there were only seven more kilometers to go until La Faba, our final destination, so we psyched ourselves up and set out once again. The last part of the walk was the climb; again: not too strenuous, but at this point we left the road and went to a forest trail, so the mud was a big contender in the speed of our progress. Finally as we entered the protection of the trees, the rain slowed and the walk became more enjoyable. (Although even in the rain I couldn't help but enjoy the beauty all around me!) 

As the walking day was winding down, so was my speed; but Vera moves so much faster when she knows she is close to the end! So we ended up reaching La Faba about fifteen minutes apart -- just enough time to put us in separate sleep rooms (but that's okay: my sleep room only has four of us in here and currently I'm the only one still awake and I hear no snoring!!). After I dropped off all my stuff and worked up my nerve to take a shower (it is so cold and though the hot water sounded so good, the thought of being cold and wet was not appealing -- but the thought of being clean won out) I went to find Vera ...who was   napping. I'm not sure why I haven't been more tired in the afternoons, but I can't seem to sleep when I try to nap, so instead I ventured over to the little church near our Albergue. What a beautiful place to sit in silent prayer! I sat undisturbed for nearly an hour before hunger interrupted and I went to wake up Vera. We threw a load of laundry in the washer and made arrangements with the lady who runs the Albergue to switch it to the dryer for us and then joined Jarek and Gosia for a short (wet) walk into town to find dinner. Dinner was delicious (soup, pork, potatoes, bread, wine, and tart de Santiago) and warm -- just what we needed after a chilly day. 

And now I am back in the Albergue, laying in bed listening to it rain. I am sharing my room tonight with a pilgrim from Hungary (but who lives in the UK) who is a photographer who "likes to make a statement" -- it is interesting to hear him talk about his work and his wife and his thoughts on this rainy weather (I didn't have the heart to tell him my weather app says rain until Saturday.) and also with a pilgrim from France (who is living in New Jersey) who runs a (self proclaimed) failing skin care product business and has had three new pairs of shoes and two new backpacks since beginning her Camino twenty days ago -- it is interesting to hear her talk about her Camino experiences as well. 

Here are a few pictures from today -- again, my camera spent most of its day in a waterproof bag, so photos are slim pickings ... 

Warmth in a mug! 

Puddle. (You're lucky I didn't just post twenty pictures of puddles!!) 

Even rainy mountains are beautiful -- and everything is so green!! 

I'm not thrilled with the rain ... but I do really like my rain jacket! 

A sanctuary from the storm ... literally. 

Just lovely. 

I knew there would have to be a rainbow eventually!!! And right over the church. 

The menu said this was lentil soup ... But it was very green and hammy ... so my expert taste buds say it was split pea and ham soup -- my favorite!! 

Tart de Santiago! Apparently this is sold everywhere in Santiago, so we are preparing our taste buds for it now. It is delicious with an almond flavor. 

The blue skies tried really hard to come out! 

And my bed for the night. 

I can't wait to snuggle into my sleeping bag and shut out the chilly air! Such a peaceful lullaby of raindrops to send me right to sleep ... 

Buen Camino. 

Jena