Day Twenty Seven: Triacastela to Barbadelo

The sun did not shine. 

It was too wet to play. 

But the pilgrims still marched on that cold, cold wet day.

(Apparently I'm channeling my inner Suess along with my inner duck.) 

Well today was indeed rainy, but not nearly as cold and windy as yesterday. Plus: when you are expecting a wet rainy day, it isn't so sad when you get one. We woke up this morning a little after seven, got ready, and headed out to find breakfast at a cafe down the road. My weather app said that perhaps there would be a break in the rain around nine, so we ate slowly ... and when the downpour turned to a drizzle we headed out to start our day. 

I feel like the theme of today was: walk fast. We met (and passed) many pilgrims on the path today, most of whom were pilgrims we had never met. I have been missing some of the pilgrims that we met earlier on our way: the ladies from the UK, Olivier from France, the man from Sweden, Marcos and his friend from Holland, Herman from the US, the couple from Hungary, the couple from Miami ... Now the path is filled with so many unfamiliar faces -- it is good to keep Vera and Gosia and Jarek close. I am sure that I will see these familiar pilgrims again once we all reach Santiago. Around noon, we made our first stop in a town just outside Sarria for lunch: croquetas and patatas Ali oli (did you expect something different?). We dried off a bit, warmed up a bit, and then headed on our way.

We walked through some really beautiful forest today; because it is so wet here, everything is green: the leaves and the grass but also the moss and the ivy that grows on the tree trunks and rocks and fences and paths. When I walk through these paths full of varying shades of greens and shadows, I feel like I'm in a fairy tale, like something magical could happen at any moment. The air is silent except for the sound of the rain filtering down through the trees and the squish of our boots in the mud as we pass. Sometimes we pass groups of pilgrims that chatter the entire time that they walk, as if the silence will harm them or hinder their experience -- I like talking with my walking buddies, but I also love to walk with them in silence. I think there is something really beautiful about walking together in quiet, each able to contemplate their own thoughts while never feeling alone. 

Soon we came to Sarria. Sarria is kind of a big deal because it marks the last "biggish town" to join up in the Camino -- you must complete 100 kilometers of the Camino in order for it to "count", and Sarria is at kilometer marker 107. The guide books recommend that we stop and stay in Sarria for the night, but the thought of cramming into a busy Albergue with new pilgrims wasn't appealing ... so we walked through the city and continued in our way. (I feel like I need to throw in a disclaimer that we don't dislike new pilgrims ... they are excited and enthusiastic and ask us lots of questions, which gives us an excuse to share some of our favorite Camino moments thus far; but we only have five days left of our journey -- and in those five days, I would rather focus on my journey and spend my time with those who have been there throughout than with those who are just now starting. Also, by avoiding the "popular" albergues and towns, we increase our odds of sleeping in a bed rather than the floor.) 

About four kilometers after Sarria we reached our destination for the evening. We checked into our Albergue, dropped our packs, showered, and rested a bit. We had seen a sign that said there was a shop in the town, so while half of us slept, the other half went on a shop finding mission ... that was an epic failure. I was on the shop finding team. Apparently there is no shop in this town (according to the restaurant worker) despite the signs that advertise otherwise. Oh well. After our failed mission we all went to find dinner. The restaurant closest to our Albergue was full (ugh) so we walked a bit further and found a dinning room in another Albergue that would serve us. I think we got the better end of the deal, because our dinner was delicious an filling (seriously: I am still stuffed). I had lentil soup, sea food paella, and "chocolate cake" that was for sure not actually chocolate cake but rather some kind of chocolate jiggly pudding ish concoction ... but it tasted okay. haha 

And now I am back in my sleep room with a full belly. I can't believe that in just five short days I will be in Santiago. A few days ago Vera started to get sad about the trip being more over than remaining, and I told her that we weren't allowed to be sad about it until we could count down the days on one hand ... which she reminded me this morning was today. I feel like I have already learned so much and still have so much more to learn. 

Here are a few pictures from today: 

Green trees and squishy mud ... pretty much sums up my morning. 

We are headed out of the mountains, so there shouldn't really be any more crazy steep climbs or dangers of falling ... but I sure will miss the views! 

I found some friends who are loving this weather. 

Pretty bridge in Sarria. 

And my (muddy) boots on a rickety foot bridge we crossed later! 

As per usual, the sun comes out as our walking is ending. 

Beautiful. 

I know, I know -- you are all dying to see the feet. haha (Or wishing I'd forget to post feet pics). Sin dalores hay no Gloria. I think my favorite part is that my toes have grown these dinosaur like ridges ... Also the crazy heel bruising. I am going to have to give the person who gives these feet a pedicure a huge tip. 

Tonight's dinner!!! (Complete with a close up of the little guy from inside my paella.) 

More stamps!!! I love love love these!! 

I forgot to take a picture of my bed earlier and now I am in it and the lights are off ... so you can just imagine that I am sleeping on the top bunk of a bed. 

And now it is time for sleep. Tomorrow will be a long day: thirty kilometers. But even in the rain, even on long days, with good friends and good thoughts, all is well. 

Buen Camino. 

Jena