Day Seventeen: Terradillos to Bercianos

This morning started as many other mornings do on the Camino: Vera and I were the last ones to rise and the last ones to eat breakfast and the last ones to get out on the path -- but that's just the way we like it! It means no lines for the bathroom, no lines for food, and plenty of sun for the start of our walk. Although lately it also means no room at the albergues, so MAYBE we will think about changing our wake up time. 

The walk this morning was beautiful. The sky was deep blue with clouds that seemed so low you could jump up and grab them. It was a little chilly, but that made the sun even that much more appreciated, especially when we found a sunny spot to soak in the warm rays. After we walked about ten kilometers, we found just such a spot at a church outside Sahagun. The church was closed and locked, but there was a pretty bridge that lead to it and these metallic sculptures that were curved just perfectly to recline in and enjoy the gorgeous day. I think I could have sat there all day -- but the Camino literally means "the walk" so onward we went. 

When we arrived in Sahagun we found the city center and enjoyed lunch. The waiter at the restaurant was really sweet and rather than allow us to try to use our Spanish insisted on using his phone to translate so he could talk to us in English, which resulted in awkward exchanges, such as when he tried to tell us to enjoy our food / meal but instead said "Your enjoy!" (I really hope this isn't how I sound when I try to speak Spanish ... but I have a sinking suspicion that it probably is. Oh well. It's all about the A for effort, right?) We also met a fellow pilgrim from South Carilina -- it's so fun meeting new pilgrims and having an instant connection that all pilgrims on the Camino share. 

After a long lunch followed by a rest, we got back on the path and marched until we hit the divide in the path. This always calls for a map check to be sure we are going the right way. (When you are walking twenty six kilometers, you don't want to have to walk twenty seven!) Sure of our decision, we continued on until we hit our final destination. 

The Albergue we are at tonight is really nice! We are in a room with only four beds (which is the smallest bed to room ratio yet on our Camino) and the bathrooms are really clean. And our favorite Polish siblings are staying here tonight, too! We had community style dinner that was supposed to be followed by prayer in the chapel, but there was an overflow of pilgrims who are now sleeping on mats in the chapel, so there was no prayer. The lady who runs the Albergue did bless us and the food before we ate, so I guess that will have to count. (Of course I do a lot of praying out in the trail, too.) During dinner we met a couple who are from Canada and sat for over two hours talking with them about travel and whatnot -- I love hearing the stories of everyone else's adventures and adding to the list of adventures I someday wish to have. I also love learning more about my fellow pilgrims, their experiences and lives away from the Camino. And now I am tucked into bed and ready for sleep. 

Here are some picture from today: 

Buenos Dias, Camino!! 

I'm crossing the bridge!! I feel like my backpack doesn't look as big in this picture as it feels when it's on my back ... Although I have to say that it is getting lighter every day! 

Sunbathing and watching the clouds ... Life is good. 

Don't the clouds just seem so close?! 

I was getting a little artsy with my pictures, trying to get in the bridge and the cross ... haha 

You didn't think you were going to get away without a foot / toe picture, did you? I think my pinkie toes have morphed into something other than toes. And the bottoms of my feet are bruised. How does that happen?! But you will be happy to know that despite looking awful, none of this really hurts that much. 

Today you get a "post shower" selfie -- clean and ready for dinner!! 

Passing the plate! Also: that is the couple from Canada. I hope we run into them again! 

A picture from inside tonight's Albergue. Go up and you will be at our sleep rooms; go down and you will be in the entrance and dining room. See all our boots lined up? It's really common for albergues to have designated boot and pole areas. 

And my bed for the night. 

All of a sudden my Camino seems to be going so fast! Tonight Vera and I were discussing the next few days and realized that we only have two weeks left. I think now is the time to really live in the moment, to enjoy what is happening right now, and to not worry about tomorrow. 

Buen Camino. 

Jena 

Day Sixteen: Corrion to Terradillos

My days are so simply beautiful -- walk, eat, walk, pray, walk, eat, sleep. Can you think of a more beautiful way to embrace and appreciate life? I can't. Today was another fantastic day on the Camino. At six this morning the sisters who ran our Albergue woke us by playing "You Raise Me Up" (1. How appropriate -- you raise me up so I can stand on mountains ... 2. Vera and I easily went back to sleep so that we could wake up at our preferred 7:15). We are always so slow moving in the morning, but we pick up speed once we have breakfast. Lately we have been adding a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice to our cafe con leche and toast for a boost of vitamins to fight my cough an her cold -- I think it is working because we are both feeling so much better. 

After breakfast we headed out for the seventeen kilometer stretch of no towns, no water, no food -- just pathway and pilgrims. I'm pretty sure Vera and I were made to walk flat straight surfaces, because we knocked out those seventeen kilometers in just over two and a half hours. As our reward, we stopped at a cafe and ate lunch. We were joined by a fellow we have seen quite a bit on the Camino from Sweden. He walks alone but is always eager to come join us for a chat when we are near. I also met a pilgrim from Austria today -- he is seventy five and this is his third Camino; but he started this one in Austria! Again: these older pilgrims continue to inspire me. 

After our (long) lunch we began our walking again, but at a relaxed pace. We sat for a while and watched the clouds (Rachel: It was like when we were hiking at Hawn State Park -- how do the clouds just disappear?!) and enjoyed the beautiful weather. Today's pathway, straight and flat as it was, was actually really interesting an thought provoking as it is the original Roman Road -- as in people have been walking that path not for hundreds but for thousands of years. I can hardly imagine! 

Around four we finally arrived in Terradillos. Just before we entered the town, there was a modern, newly constructed Albergue that Vera's dad had told her about, so we stopped in and were able to get two beds. Our French friend and the ladies from the UK are here, too, so it was nice to catch up with them and talk about our day. We asked about mass in the church in town, but they said there was none tonight because there was a funeral, but we were welcome to go to the funeral ... we passed. One spanish funeral is enough. Vera and I rested for a while and then had dinner -- the typical pilgrim menu. After that I practiced my doctoring skills first on my own feet (which are doing a lot better tonight) and then on a fellow pilgrim's leg -- he has such bad shin splints, so I used my kinesio tape that I've been using on my knees to see if I can help him to not have so much pain while walking. I hope it works!! 

And now I'm in bed, showered and ready to sleep. Tomorrow was supposed to be a short day (only thirteen kilometers) but we heard the town we were going to stay in isn't all that nice and doesn't allow forks and knives ... so we will go a little bit further ; ) 

Here are a few pictures from today: 

A lovely day for a lovely walk with lovely people. 

It doesn't look it because they put gravel over it to preserve it, but this is the actual Roman Road!! 

There were no donkeys for today's selfie, so you will have to settle for a selfie of just me. 

I might take way too many pictures of Camino signs ... 

I take way too many pictures of the scenery, too. 

My credential is almost full!! But I have a second one waiting to be filled as soon as this one is full. See that red one with the well? That is from the crazy Albergue man. And the black one in the bottom right is from the amazing pilgrim blessing last night. And the purple one next to it was at the cafe were I took a selfie with a donkey. Each stamp has such a story to go with it!! 

And my bed for the night. 

I have finally read everyone's letters!! If you are thinking "what letter" then don't worry, but if you were one of the letter writers, they were all wonderful and inspiring and have helped me so much on this journey. Thank you so much for writing them and for your thoughts and prayers. Also: today marks the half way point, both in time and mileage. Can you believe I've already walked over 250 miles?! Parts of me think that's unreal. Other parts of me (namely my toes) totally believe that it's possible. I can't wait to see what the second half of my Camino has in store!! 

Buen Camino. 

Jena 

Day Fifteen: Boadillas to Corrion

First of all: Happy Mother's Day to the world's greatest mother -- my mother! Even though this Mother's Day we are literally half a world apart, we are never really apart because I carry with me all of your teachings, your advice, your habits, your sayings, and your love everywhere I go. I love you so much and can't wait to see you!! (And more importantly I hope you can't wait to see me. June 1st. At the airport. Don't forget me.) 

Secondly: we survived the "Albergue" last night!! And truth be told, for as crazy as our host was, it was the best night of sleep I've had yet -- only Vera and I and one other person in a room to ourselves. We slept in a bit (7:15) and then got up and started walking. After about six kilometers we reached Formista where we had breakfast. And by breakfast, I mean I was starving and had a pastry and a tortilla and cafe con leche. After we left Formista we got to a fork in the path, one way being an "alternative" route. We don't do alternative. Alternative usually means less signs, less people, and more of a chance of getting lost; so we stuck to the main route. I knew from looking at the guidebook that we should reach a town at four kilometers and another at five kilometers and another two kilometers later, the third town being the one where we planned to eat lunch. So we start walking, and in no time a all we are at the first town (and we praised ourselves for being so quick). We continue marching onward, and again even more quickly we arrive in town number two. We are so quick we reward ourselves with a break! We pick back up and keep moving forward and soon come to the third town where we find a little cafe and go inside. As we sat drinking our tea, I pulled out the guidebook to see how much further we had to go for the day and started looking for the name of the town we were currently in ... and I looked, and I looked ... Um, where are we? On the alternative route. Of course we are. You should know that we have not marched the eleven kilometers we thought we had ( in one and a half hours ) but rather a little over eight. Also: we have been walking all day along a rather unattractive road. It is a quiet road, but rumor has it that the "alternative route" which is actually the original route was gorgeous. Oh well. The total kilometers turn out to be the same, and after a few kilometers further both routes rejoined. 

So last night I had this dream that after I got back from the Camino, instead of returning to my apartment I went to live in great-grandma Mertens' old house, which is strange because I haven't thought about that house in ages. Then today, despite the not so pretty sites, we came across the most beautiful and fragrant rose bushes -- I smelled them before I saw them. And they didn't smell like a funeral home (the way I think most flowers do) but smelled just like the ones that great-grandma always had growing along her driveway and cut on her kitchen table. I always think of great grandma when I see roses. I think she was trying to tell me that she was with me on the Camino today. 

We arrived into Corrion (every time I saw a sign for Corrion I thought of "carry on" and then proceeded to sing that song for the next five hundred meters ... May your past be the sound of your feet upon the ground ... carry oooooooooooonnnn) a little earlier than our normal (we really had been walking quickly despite all our breaks) and went to the first Albergue we saw, but they could only offer us one bed which was not okay -- so we walked down to the next one: and I'm so glad we did!! This Albergue is the parish Albergue run by the order of sisters of this town. We were greeted at the door with a cool drink of water and they offered us soup if we were hungry. We also got to buy second pilgrim passports since ours are almost full (have I mentioned how much we live getting stamps?!) After a quick rest, a shower, and some TLC for the toes, we were back out for mass. The church was small (though bigger than my home parish) and though nowhere nearly as ornate as the church in Los Arcos was still very beautiful with a simpler alter piece and beautiful side devotional areas. After mass there was a blessing of the pilgrims by both the priest and the sisters -- it was so beautiful! The priest recognized each of the countries we had come from and then blessed us one by one making the sign of the cross on our foreheads while the sisters gave us these paper stars asking us to take them with us to Santiago and then to our homes. 

After mass, Vera, Gorscha, Jarek, and I went out to dinner where every cat in Carrion waited for us to feed them our food. (Which of course we did, only attracting more cats.) And now I am tucked into my bed (literally tucked because it is so chilly!!) and ready for sleep. Tomorrow after we leave this town there is a seventeen kilometer stretch with no towns -- we stopped by a market to grab food for that time: I grabbed nuts and dried fruit and an apple and Cheetos and cookies; Vera bought gummy candies .... It's a good thing I'm a good sharer!! 

Here are some pictures from the day: 

Los tres amigos!! And also the three line survivors from the crazy Albergue experience! 

The views today were only meh ... but the temperature was nice and the walk wasn't difficult. 

Beautiful roses to brighten our walk! 

Today's selfie is with .... a donkey!! The cafe we ate at had two donkeys just wandering the patio like stray dogs, but instead of begging at the tables they just helped themselves to whatever everyone else was having. 

Most towns have some type of pilgrim monument lurking somewhere ... this is one from today. 

We were laying down on a small brick wall, resting our feet and our eyes when I looked up and saw this arched rainbow encircling the sun -- it was so strange and so pretty! 

Church!! I love when the doors are open and the pilgrims are invited inside!! 

The dinner crew! 

So I ordered fish, and it came like this ... I would like to say that I can add "eating a whole fish" to my repertoire of culinary accomplishments, but since I could not master eating it with a fork and instead ate it with my hands like a toddler, I think I will have to wait to check it off the list until I have practiced a bit. However: the cats LOVED the head, tail, and bones. Happy to donate to the cause! 

And my bed for tonight. 

Tomorrow will be a long day, but I am hopeful that it will be filled with pretty views, deep thoughts, and good company. 

Buen Camino. 

Jena 

Day Fourteen: Hontanas to Boadillas

Someone forgot to tell the maseta that it is supposed to be flat -- because just about the time that I think "today will be a lovely day of level walking" a mountain just pops up out of nowhere and upwards I climb. Today marks TWO WEEKS of continuous walking on the Camino de Santiago -- and what an adventure these two weeks have been!! 

This morning started out well -- Vera is feeling so much better! We grabbed breakfast and then headed out on the path. We were blessed with another day of gorgeous weather and beautiful scenery. After about two hours we arrived at the first little town where we indulged in freshly squeezed orange juice and pastries (I think it must be okay to eat chocolate at every meal if you are walking more than fifteen miles a day with a twenty five pound pack in your back). We rested there and enjoyed the company of our fellow pilgrims before heading back out. We walked through some beautiful fields of wild flowers and then came upon a "hill". So we huffed and puffed our way to the top where there was a tiny shelter in the shade. I have to tell you: when I see the pilgrims walking these steep climbs along side me who are well in their seventies, I think three things: please don't have a stroke; I'm being outpaced by someone three times my age; I hope that when I am in my seventies I'm still seeking adventure. These older pilgrims really do inspire me. So many times I think that there is so much I want to do in my life and so many things I want to see and experience; I fear that there just isn't enough time to accomplish it all! But then I see these pilgrims who are living every minute of life to the fullest, and I think that  perhaps it is possible to check all the items from my bucket list. 

After a short rest on the top of the hill we contined on. The next town was about two hours away, and it was where we were to have lunch. After what seemed like forever, we arrived and had a small lunch in an Albergue before heading out towards our final destination. Usually as the day winds down, my feet begin to ache and I lessen my pace. Vera is the opposite: the day begins to wind down and she just wants to arrive, so she walks faster -- she is usually a good five minutes ahead of me by the time we get to where we are going. So tonight when I entered Boadillas, I found Vera sitting at an entrance to a gate along with a French man (that we have seen many times on the path) who until two days ago was walking with his cousin (his cousin decided the Camino wasn't her thing and flew home). They were joined by a man who shouted his congratulations as I approached. There are two large albergues in the town (and visible from the spot I was standing) but this man also runs an Albergue and (lucky for us ...) would love to have us for the night. Had it just been Vera and I, I would have said we should have continued to the municipal Albergue, but with the addition of the French pilgrim to our team this seemed like an okay option. 

First I all, the place is wonderful. It is like being at home! We each have our own bed and there is a living room with a gas burning stove and a (partially stocked) kitchen where we could cook our own dinner and the bathrooms and showers were clean and we were the only people to use them today ... so homey and quaint! Secondly, the man who runs this Albergue is crazy; maybe certifiably so. But he has a stamp and his Albergue is in the guide book, so I guess he is legit. After establishing that the town has no restaurant and no grocery store, we resigned to cooking our own dinner (salad and pasta). The guy from France just happened to be carrying noodles and sausages with him -- all Vera and I had to contribute to the meal was half a chocolate bar and a few cookies ... When dinner was consumed and we had cleaned all the dishes, the Albergue owner had us all sit down in front of this huge wall painting and asked us to describe it to him. Long story later, it was his opportunity to tell us to enjoy the Camino and to be a pilgrim, not a tourist. (Also his chance to rant about how the big albergues are just out for our money ...) 

And now I am all tucked into my bed and ready for a good night of sleep. Here are a few pictures from today: 

Good morning, lovely Camino! 

Mid morning snack? Don't mind if I do ... 

I want poppy fields near my home! 

Two very tired pilgrims -- but we finally got to the top!! 

Standing strong all the way at the top! And look at the pretty views behind me!! 

So my feet have decided that they are going to remind me that I am on a pilgrimage, not a vacation, and that the road is often filled with suffering. How kind of them to keep me grounded in reality -- and the reality is: these blisters hurt!! I much prefer poking other people with needles to puncturing myself. Oh well -- the toes are well cleaned, drained, and all bandaged up for the night. 

Every day I wonder how I will explain the beauty to everyone at home, but I think you must experience it for yourself. 

It's a good thing the French guy was here, or Vera and I would have had cookies and chocolate for dinner!! 

Look who found a guitar in her Albergue!! I felt so at peace sitting on the couch with the window open strumming the guitar and singing. 

Such a lovely place to call home for the night! 

And my bed for tonight. 

I keep forgetting -- so now that it is almost over: Happy Nurses' Week to all my fellow nurses!! Not many professions get to be the hands and feet of Christ on a daily basis -- how blessed we are to be the comforters, caretakers, and advocates for the sick and the suffering. 

Buen Camino. 

Jena 

Day Thirteen: Burgos to Hontanas

True to its superstition, day thirteen was a bit unlucky. The morning started not with Vera and I rising with the sun and gearing up for thirty three kilometers of walking ahead of us, but rather to Vera not feeling well and discussion of whether or not she should attempt the day's walk. We packed up and headed to a cafe near by and had some breakfast, after which Vera was feeling a little better, so we decided to go on. I felt so awful that she was feeling so awful! I could tell that was miserable, but I decided to support her in whatever decision she made, whether that be walking or taking a bus. As a friends on the Camino, we support each other and encourage each other and push each other when we feel we can't go on - but how do you know when to keep encouraging and when to say that enough is enough? We marched on to the next town, ten kilometers away. We stopped in at the pharmacy and got Vera some medicine, but even so she was just feeling too ill to go on for twenty three more kilometers ... and that is how I ended up a solo pilgrim for the day. 

As I walked away from the cafe we had stopped at, I felt so guilty. I knew that I didn't want to take a taxi, but I also didn't want her to go alone. I also knew that she must be feeling so much frustration, both because her body is so sick and also because she will not have walked the whole Camino (we have already decided that I will just make her do extra laps when we get to Santiago, so it will be okay). And so I mustered all my courage and strength and started walking ... and walking and walking and walking. 

As I headed (where else) up the hill towards the next town, I started crossing paths with, one by one, religious sisters who were coming down the hill. I'm not sure if they aren't to walk together or if they use their time walking to be alone, but it was almost as if someone was standing at the top of the hill releasing them one by one in a staggered pattern. And as each one passed, I greeted them and they wished me a Buen Camino. I think they helped to pass the lonely beginning a little faster, because in no time I was already five kilometers away in the next town. After that the time flew by -- I thought about my sisters and prayed for them and their futures; I thought about my future and prayed that everything turn out exactly as it should; I prayed for my parents and my grandparents and all my little cousins. Pretty much: I prayed a lot. If you are reading this right now, I probably prayed for you, too. 

Soon I came to Hornillas, the last town before the big final stretch -- and was I ever happy to run into the two Dutch men I had enjoyed dinner with just a few nights prior! The Camino has a way of providing just what you need when you need it. (For example: I started my trip with two pairs of sunnies. I broke one pair and lost the other, so I bought a hat instead. Well today I was thinking that I really should buy another pair of sunnies because the hat just isn't cutting it -- and wouldn't you know it there in my path was a pair of sunglasses! There was no one else around, so I picked them up and put them on. I'll leave them for another pilgrim at the end of my trip.) I sat down with the men and enjoyed an ice tea and we chatted about our day when I realized the time was getting late (I had been sitting with them for an hour) and suggested we move on, but they were staying in Hornillas for the night. So solo again, I grabbed by bag and headed on my way. I wasn't solo for long, however, because on the path I met up with a German couple that we haven't seen for a few days (his foot was bothering him so they've been taking the bus the last few days). I chatted with them as I walked but eventually they too stopped and I was left to go the last five kilometers alone. What is it with the last five kilometers? They are always the hardest, and today I was missing my pep talk buddy. But no worries -- I gave myself a nice little pep talk. Eventually I came to a sign that announced my final destination was just two kilometers away. I walked a little faster and soon there was a sign that the town was just five hundred meters away -- but it couldn't be! I couldn't see it anywhere. I kept walking, and it was as if God just nestled it in between two hills -- beautifully waiting for my arrival. I could have cried. I was so tired and my feet were aching (imagine having a Charlie horse in your foot and then walking a few miles) but also I was so stinking proud of myself -- I felt so accomplished. Now granted I flew to Spain fully understanding that I was a solo pilgrim and may end up walking the entire Camino alone, but after I met Vera and we decided to walk together, I have felt like part of a team -- it's hard to keep going when you are missing part of your team. 

I got into Hontanas and texted Vera to see where she was staying. I quickly found her and we shared our adventures from while we were apart (she had quite the taxi adventure today!). She is already feeling better after a break from walking and an afternoon nap. I wanted to go to the church to pray, but there is no mass tonight and the doors are locked. (Do you think that's God's way of saying "You spent your whole day talking to me; we need some alone time."?) So instead Vera and I registered for a 7:00 dinner slot and waited (not so patiently) for our turn to eat. Our friends Jarek and Gorscha were waiting for dinner, too, so we all got to eat together -- by far one of the highlights of the day. It makes my heart happy how much laughter occurs when we are all together. 

And now I am sitting on the floor outside my sleep room (because it was the only place I could find to charge my phone) and Jarek says I need to stop blogging and go to bed ... So here are some pictures from today: 

I love all the poppies!!! 

Being a solo pilgrim ... (And my God given sunnies!!) 

For being an unlucky day, it sure was a pretty one! Although it was a little warm ... 

Tara: This one's for you -- birdie on a post!! 

It's hard to see, but there are sea shells tied to that cross. I love walking in the middle of nowhere and coming across these beautiful little shrines. 

If you look closely, you can see the steeple of the church. Such a sweet little town all nestled into the hillside. 

At dinner we ordered ice cream for desert. The waitress brought out one first (chocolate) and handed it to Jarek who handed it to me ... who started eating it. Well then about five minutes later she brought out his -- hazelnut, which he doesn't like; so I traded him. And that is how I got one and a half deserts tonight!! 

And my bed for tonight. 

Please pray that Vera feels better tomorrow -- I need my walking buddy back! Also: the church bell just rang and a goose (probably not a goose) honked ... that better not be an all night occurrence!!! 

Buen Camino. 

Jena 

Day Twelve: Ages to Burgos

What did I ever do to deserve to be so blessed? Today was another fabulous day on the Camino! Well, two thirds of it was fabulous -- that other one third was not so nice, but we'll get to that later. 

After a sound night of rest, Vera and I rose early (and by early, we mean six thirty) and went down for breakfast; the Albergue owner piled our plates so high we could not eat it all! Toast and croissants and pastries plus coffee con leche and juice -- so much! We ate our fill and headed out of town. 

It is magnificent how strong you feel when standing atop a mountain; to look down at the town you started from and realize how far you've come and how much you had to overcome to get there. The Camino wouldn't be the Camino without such steep climbs -- it gives the pilgrims time to contemplate the mountains in their own lives and find ways to overcome them. And what celebration there is to be had when you are on top of that mountain! I had quite a bit of time to think about the mountains in my life today: the ones I have already climbed, the ones I have yet to climb, and the ones I'm not sure I want to climb or will get the chance to climb. But no matter where my path leads me and no matter the terrain, I know I have the Lord with me protecting my journey.

After a lovely walk through the countryside, we reached a tiny town where our favorite ladies from the UK were having a coffee, so we joined them for a while. It is so nice to come upon a town and find all your friends waiting for you there! (A luxury those who are always up early and are the first ones who arrive never get to experience.) It was such a beautiful morning and then .... we hit a suburb. Blech. Suddenly the way was a concrete highway and we felt more like grubby hitch hikers than pilgrims. This was the icky one third of my day; that and the fact that walking on the pavement gave me my first blisters of the trip. 

But THEN we came to Burgos!! For those who don't know, Burgos is a large city and home to the second largest cathedral in Spain. We walked for almost an hour just to arrive in the city center. (Funny story: So all the guidebooks advise against theft and pit pocketers in Burgos, but Vera needed to stop at an ATM, so we decided that while she was getting cash, I would hold her gigantic wooden walking stick that she purchased a few days ago when I got my hat and use it to smack anyone who tried to take our things. Because we were not mugged, we decided everyone must fear the walking stick.) Once we arrived to city center, we quickly found our Albergue: the municipal Albergue that houses over 150 pilgrims. We dropped our stuff, took a rest, took a shower, and ventured out to find food and go to mass. 

The site of the cathedral was breathtaking: the details of the architecture and the saints that line the archways and doorways could hold my attention for hours. After walking around and soaking it in, we ate dinner at a cafe that sits in the shadow of the massive church. Mass was at 7:30, so we shuffled over and found a boys choir practicing -- amazing voices that echoes off the interior of the chapel. Mass was simple and quick -- the priest seemed tired and didn't even give a homily! He went straight from the gospel to the petitions! Oh well. 

After mass Vera and I stopped in at a chocolate shop we found that sold hot chocolate with churos. If you haven't has the pleasure if drinking hot chocolate in Spain, you should know that it is the richest, thickest hot chocolate you've ever tasted -- imagine melting a chocolate bar and then drinking it. Delicious! There we ran into the brother / sister team from Poland who invited us to their floor (in our same Albergue) for sangria. We stopped by to say hello, but tomorrow is a long day of walking (35 kilometers) and we need to get up early(er than we have been) so that we make it to our next destination in a timely manner. 

Here are some photos from today: 

Sheep!!!! Who knew they didn't all live in Ireland? I like their black faces. 

Everyone likes to comment how strange it is that the two of us walk together being from different parts of the world and never having met before ... but we sure are enjoying ourselves! 

A labyrinth on the top of the mountain!! 

Some people go their whole lives and never see the view from the top of a mountain. 

Coffee break with Muriel, Carol, Liz, an Richard!! 

My toes are rebelling!! But I have a plan to keep them in line tomorrow. (And they don't hurt too much.) 

Prayers said from inside here must count extra ... 

My dinner outside the cathedral. Vera commented that she wished we could stay here for a few days, but I think that is part of the beauty of the Camino -- always a new day in a new town; always a new experience and a new adventure to be had! 

Churos and hot chocolate! Delicious. 

And my bed for the night. Oh -- did you notice that it is absurdly close to the bed next to it? Me too. Ricardo from Italy is sleeping all of six inches from my face right now. 

And it is time for me to sleep, too. I am so blessed to have the opportunity to be here and the opportunity to wake up and do it all over again tomorrow. 

Buen Camino. 

Jena