Day Twenty One: Vilar de Mozarife to Astorga

Our Albergue was a sad one this morning with one pilgrim heading to the hospital with a painful knee, most likely unable to finish her Camino. She came all the way from Austrailia, so to be unable to finish on this attempt is really devistating for her. I shared with her the words of the wise Dutch pilgrim (Colette), that your Camino is not about reaching Santiago but rather about the experiences you have along the Way -- and if her Camino ends now, it is not a failure but rather she should take with her the experiences and friendships and lessons she has learned and made this far. 

On a happier note: we are excited to report that we were successful in our attempt to wake up before seven and leave early -- we were up, packed, had eaten breakfast, and were on the road all by 7:30. We quickly made our way to the first town where we had a small rest and then kept walking -- if you're going to get in more than thirty kilometers in a day, you have to keep moving! The next town we came to was Hospital de Ortega (or something like that) that has a bridge that has been standing since the year 400. (And next to the bridge was this huge wooden structure that we are 98% sure are not gallows ... but really look like gallows ... )The town was so pretty and quaint -- many pilgrims were staying over here (and I could see why!) but it was only our half way point for the day, so we bought some fruit and cookies at the store and continued walking. 

The next stretch was a little boring along the highway, but the mountains were in view (and keep looming closer and closer) and so they were pretty to look at. I keep analyzing them, some with snow and some without, and wonder which it will be that we will soon be crossing. This is where we took our first "accidental detour" (which is completely different from being lost). We went about two to three kilometers out of our way into a little town that was not on The Way. We were greeted into the town by a team of dogs that barked the entire time we were in their site and soon realized that this town had two problems: one, there was no cafe for us to eat at, and we were starving, and two, there were no yellow arrows. So we sat down outside the church and consulted the guide book and saw where we went wrong; and then trudged back to the path where a huge hill was waiting for us. After a pretty stretch of walking away from the highway, our destination was in site. By this time it was half past two and with every step we were thinking about food, so we stopped an hour outside Astorga and ate lunch. 

An hour or so later (around four o'clock) we arrived in Astorga. Astorga is so pretty and our Albergue is so nice -- and big! I think it houses almost 160 pilgrims. We checked in and dropped off our packs (and took a nap) and then headed out to check out the Chocolate Museum and the Gaudi Palace. The Chocolate Museum was nothing too exciting, but there was chocolate tasting at the end, which made it worth our time. It was really neat to see the different molds that they use for the chocolate and to see how the chocolate business in Astorga has been passed down through certain families. 

Next we went to the Gaudi Palace that also serves as a Camino Museum -- now the question is: How will I explain to my future contractor that I want my ceilings to look exactly like the ones in the Gaudi Palace?! A little history: In the late 1880s the bishop of Astorga's house (and by house I mean palace) burned down and so he asked Antonio Gaudi to build a new one since Gaudi was from the same hometown as the bishop. He started construction in 1889 and worked until 1893 when the bishop died; at this point Gaudi stopped construction and it was up to another architect (who used Gaudi's original plans) to finish the job in 1913. Though the palace is equipped with such rooms as a kitchens and bedrooms (that are not on display), no one has ever lived in the palace. It has only ever been a museum filled with religious art and Camino artifacts. Let me tell you: this place is amazingly beautiful. None of my pictures will do it justice. Inside I viewed many religious carvings and paintings as well as the intricately designed crosses, monstrances, and crowns used by various bishops from the last three hundred years. The basement of the palace houses ancient Roman artifacts including a few tombs, pottery, and coins. I think we could have stayed there for hours ... but we didn't. 

On our way back to our Albergue we ran into Jarek and Gosia who were watching a futbol match (we ran into them a lot today -- we were moving fast!). And now I'm resting in bed, telling my feet how well they did today and that they will need a repeat performance tomorrow when we will walk just as many kilometers, but in those snowy mountains. 

Here are a few pictures from today: 

This is what a bridge that has been standing since the year 400 AD looks like! (And apparently also what a Spanish wading fisherman looks like ...) 

And this is what Vera and I look like standing on a bridge that has been standing since 400 AD!! haha 

Getting artsy with the sign, the path, the poppies, and the mountains ... 

Today's weather couldn't have been more lovely! The views had their moments, too. 

Why do we not have palaces in the Unites States?! (I mean, I get why ...) Palaces are just so fascinating! 

So big!! 

Can you imagine having a ceiling like this in your kitchen? Or bedroom? Or living room? So gorgeous!!! 

These crosses were used in the processions of bishops. 

And another one of the ceiling -- seriously, I'm in love. 

The Pieta. 

Aaaaaaaand me with the amazing ceiling ... (I swear this is the last one.) 

This would have been the chapel had the home ever housed a bishop. My iPhone didn't capture it super well, but my camera did. 

I totally identify with the depiction of this pilgrim. 

The many crosses and crowns of the bishops. 

Ancient Roman tomb ... also hat pilgrims look like at the end of the day. 

And my bed for the night. 

We were going to go back out tonight, but Vera is so tired and I don't want to leave her alone in the Albergue, so we are both getting a little extra rest tonight (which is probably good for both of us!) Although our Albergue does have a really nice little chapel, so I think I'll go pray for a bit ... 

Please pray for all the pilgrims who are making the journey up the mountain tomorrow, both from Astorga and from St. Jean. Also pray for the pilgrims whose journeys have been cut short by injury (and pray that I nor any of my friends become one of those). 

Buen Camino. 

Jena