Day Twenty Two: Astorga to Manjarin

It's hard to believe sitting where I am right now that this morning I was in a city center surrounded by buildings and electricity and running water -- are you curious about where I am now? Well I'll get to that in a bit. 

This morning we rose at seven thirty, packed our stuff, and went in search of breakfast; we then started our morning march. After a short trek through the city we found ourselves in beautiful countryside spotted with little towns. Just before the first little town we met a cute old man on a bike who greeted us and wished us a Buen Camino -- I guess our responses were too good, because he began conversing with us about last night's futbol match, asked us where we were from, and then told us about his daughter who owned a restaurant up the path. Sure enough, we found his daughter's restaurant, so we stopped there for a drink and a snack before continuing on our way. The next stop we made was in a little town that boasted it had a cowboy museum ... it didn't, but it did have a cowboy restaurant where we had some empanadas. At this point we had hiked just over ten kilometers and had just over twenty more to go. 

The next ten kilometers were through the mountains -- so so so beautiful!! I can't believe how much easier it was to climb the mountains this time around! I mean, the change in altitude was a little less than the hike out of St. Jean, but the steepness was still there! It just goes to show how the Camino creates strong minds, strong spirits, and strong bodies. In the middle of our mountain adventure we ran into a pilgrim dressed in medevil garb with a falcon -- random, right? But he had a stamp and in our book that means you're legit, so we stopped to say hello. 

After a quick rest at the twenty kilometer mark, we set our minds on our next destination: Cruce de Ferro. An uphill climb landed us in a tiny mountain town with a small store where we gobbled down a banana and drank some water before pushing the last three kilometers. We could see it before we reached it: the silver cross perched high in the air, higher than the peaks of the mountains behind it. All around the wooden post it sits on are stones from the homes of the pilgrims who come to visit; stones and pictures and banners and flags and other tokens adorn the ground and the pole itself. Tradition says that pilgrims who pass by on their way to Santiago should bring with them a stone from their home country to lay before the cross. For some, this stone symbolizes a burden they want to let go of or a habit they want to quit or a sin they want to be forgiven; for some it is a symbol of a loved one they wish to remember or simply a piece of themselves to leave behind in the Camino. I left a stone from Red Bud (from my grandparents' front yard) at the base of the cross along with a picture; on my stone I wrote: "It's not always the path you thought you would take, but it's always the path you were meant to be on." This really speaks to me, not only about my Camino journey but my journey in life altogether. We spent some time at the cross, taking in all the other tokens as well as the stones that are no longer intact but rather ground into dust after years of pilgrims climbing atop them. I like this thought as well, that years from now my stone may no longer be intact and legible, but it will become part of the pile, part of the story and history of the Camino. 

Now that we had reached Cruce de Ferro, there were only two and a half kilometers left for the day -- to our Albergue. Let's talk about this Albergue for a moment ... About a week ago, Jarek announces that he heard about this really great Albergue that he wants us all to stay at that is run by this man, Tomas. That sounds good to Vera and I, so we agree. Never agree to something before you investigate all the details, because sometimes the details are omitted from the agreement. After we agree, we find out that there are no showers ... well, that's okay. As the time approaches that we will be staying at this ... place ... its title is downgraded with each mention: Tomas's Albergue, Tomas's Cabin, Tomas's Tent ... Well, it is not a tent BUT there is no running water, no electricity, and the roof has seen better days. However, dinner was excellent and the company is superb (and of course the evening has been filled with lots of laughter and stories). Also: the view is to die for and they don't serve breakfast until eight (which means we get to sleep in!!!) Tomorrow we only have about twenty kilometers to walk, so it will all even out. 

I think I better show you some pictures: 

Next stop: the top of that mountain!! 

Oh hey -- did I mention I got to hold the falcon?! The guy was raising money for childhood cancer. 

Going up! 

There it is -- Cruce de Ferro. Even from a distance it is impressive. 

And a little closer look ... 

That's my rock with the blue writing; and of course that's my picture with my amazing, beautiful, wonderful sisters -- now even though your bodies didn't walk the Camino with me, all will know I carried you in my heart. 

I mean seriously: this is just so gorgeous!! 

This would be Tomas's ... whatever you want to call it. I call it my home for the night. 

Cozy, huh? 

I don't think so ... I'd rather find a bush. 

Our view -- I think despite the lack of ammenities I could stay here forever. 

Communal dinner (and by communal I mean Vera, Jarek, Gosia, and I and two other souls brave enough to stay with us -- Alexandria and her fiancé from Hungary) of chicken stew! 

There is so much beauty along the Camino and within the Camino -- I am in love. 

Jarek and Gosia are ready to bunk down for the night! 

And so are Vera and I -- that's my bed for the night. 

We have had such wonderful weather, but judging by the howling wind and my weather app, we are in for some rain the next few days. Boo. Oh well -- I will pray for sunshine and see what happens. This has truly been a wonderful day. 

Buen Camino. 

Jena