Day Twenty Three: Manjarin to Pomferrada

Last night was quite the adventure, but I wouldn't have traded it for any other Albergue! Sleep eluded me at first (Tomas has ten dogs that like to howl the visitors to sleep), but once I was asleep, I was out and didn't wake until eight when it was time for breakfast. When I came down from the rafters of my humble sleep room, I found pilgrims who were passing through and had slept in the town before (aka they'd been up for a few hours). They all asked the same questions: You slept here? Where is the bathroom? We were invited into Tomas's home for breakfast (away from the pilgrims who were passing through) and had coffee and cookies. We then packed our bags and started our walk -- where else but straight up. 

You know the saying "what goes up must come down"? Well this applies not only to Newton's theory of gravity but also to hiking pilgrims. Up up up followed by steep down down down. After about an hour and a half of walking we arrived at a tiny village that had a cafe and (more importantly) a bathroom! Have you ever had a completely full bladder and then thought to yourself "I know! I'll strap this twenty five pound pack around my middle and then climb mountains for seven kilometers!"? Well it isn't super pleasant -- but the amazing views helped to distract my mind. I was afraid that this morning would be full of rain, but it held off and turned out to be a pretty day. At the cafe we ordered a bit more filling of a breakfast and charged our phones before heading on our way. 

The walking today left me in awe -- the mountains are just so majestic. The climbing was a little strenuous, but we handled it well. At one point we found a spot under the shade of a few trees where we could rest and soak in the views. We passed through another small town before arriving at a village where we had lunch. From there it was only six more kilometers to our final destination. 

We arrived in Pomferrada a little before four and happily checked into the only Albergue in town (that houses over two hundred pilgrims). The room I am in has twenty bunk beds alone. We saw Gosia and Jarek as we were checking in along with the Hungarian couple we met yesterday. I dropped my bag and took a much needed nap and then an even more needed shower. Clean and refreshed, Vera and I ventured out to find some dinner: croquetas and patatas ali oli. Yum! 

And now I am in my top bunk, ready to get some sleep. It won't be quite the same symphony that lulled me to sleep last night -- I'm sure tonight will be filled with snoring; and there is a water pipe above my bed that seems to be constantly flowing ... but that's okay: pilgrims happily accept the spot they are given. 

We completely lucked out on today's weather: the rain started just after we arrived, bringing with it temperatures in the forties. The forecast calls for rain again tomorrow, so hopefully we can get in all our walking before it starts up again! 

Here are some pictures from today: 

Breakfast for the survivors! 

Good morning, mountains! 

Of all the signs that should be out on the mountain (steep incline, steep decline, loose rocks, slippery when wet, slippery when dry, grazing goats ahead) the signs that are posted warn us that there is a road ahead ... Listen: If I survived that narrow path and didn't fall off the mountain, I'm pretty sure I can look both ways before I cross the street. 

Early morning mountain selfie!! 

In how many languages can you say chapel? 

How we look on the outside while climbing down the mountain (left) and how we are feeling on the inside (right). 

I think I'll put my house (with the amazing palace ceilings) riiiiiiiiiight here. 

I love when we are coming down the mountain and spot a town! 

Just gorgeous. 

Dinner!! It was a good thing Vera and I decided to share the patatas Ali oli and the croquetas -- we would have never finished them on our own! (Of course there is always room for desert!) 

And my bed for the night. 

Tomorrow we march ourselves to Villafranca -- I can't wait to see what the day has in store! 

Buen Camino. 

Jena